The most remarkable cities often feature a rough exterior, deterring the less adventurous travelers, and Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, is no exception. On first glance, the city is alive with bustling tuk-tuks, traditional Ashok Leyland buses, and the cawing of black crows amidst the sweet scent of frangipani trees. However, a deeper exploration reveals a vibrant metropolis brimming with culture, innovation, and enthusiastic locals. From the uneven walkways of Colombo 7, where art spaces are tucked away, to the hidden buildings near Beira Lake hosting rooftop bars that offer exceptional cocktails, there is much to discover. This city warrants a few days on any Sri Lankan travel itinerary, providing an authentic glimpse of local life beyond the tourist hotspots on the south coast.

According to Ashok Ferrey in his book Cut Pieces, Colombo is the fastest-evolving capital city worldwide — a statement that resonates strongly. The photogenic Old Fort area showcases colonial-era architecture with its charming dark pink buildings, while the rapid development of Port City and Slave Island introduces modern structures at an astonishing rate. Amidst these changes, the familiar calls of the Asian koel provide a constant soundtrack to Colombo’s dynamic landscape.

Highlights of a 48-Hour Stay in Colombo

Day One

• Morning: Discover various museums
• Lunch at: Ranbath Organic
• Afternoon: Visit Number 11
• Drinks at: Eskobar
• Evening: Explore Paradise Road
• Dinner at: Table by Nyne

Day Two

• Morning: Visit Kelaniya Temple
• Lunch at: The ‘Stache
• Afternoon: Explore Pettah and Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque
• Drinks at: Uncle’s
• Evening: Bar crawl
• Dinner at: Gini

Must-See Attractions

● Immerse yourself in Sri Lanka’s rich history at the Colombo National Museum (entry fee: £4), featuring stunning bronze Bodhisattva sandals from the 9th century. Nearby, the Sapumal Foundation, housed in a quaint old building in Colombo 7, displays around 300 artworks by notable Sri Lankan artists, including Lionel Wendt’s intimate black-and-white photography and Harry Pieris’s evocative oils (entry: free; @SapumalFoundation). Afterward, take a tuk-tuk ride (approximately £1) to the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Sri Lanka (MMCA), just ten minutes away, for a glimpse of cutting-edge local art by emerging talents (entry: free; mmca-srilanka.org).

● Escape the heat at Number 11, the stunning home of Geoffrey Bawa, one of Sri Lanka’s most esteemed architects. Bawa’s tropical modernism is evident in his airy, open-plan designs, which you can explore on daily tours at 2pm and 3.30pm on weekdays, and at 4pm on Saturdays (entry fee: £13; geoffreybawa.com).

● Paradise Road, a well-known Sri Lankan brand, recently opened a flagship store at 138 Galle Road, showcasing its distinctive black-and-white ceramics, including mugs featuring Tamil and Sinhalese scripts, as well as an exhibition space and a concept clothing store with monochromatic pieces by local designers.

● While many visitors flock to Gangaramaya Temple, consider visiting the lesser-known Kelaniya Temple, located seven miles northeast of Colombo. This temple features intricate depictions of the reclining Buddha and breathtaking murals painted by the talented Walimuni Solias Mendis, taking over 20 years to complete. Dress respectfully for your visit (entry: free).

● The architecturally striking Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque in the Pettah neighborhood is painted in eye-catching red and white stripes and is a popular spot for photos. Enjoy the grandeur of its exterior from Main Street and 2nd Cross Street before venturing inside for a calmer experience (entry: free). On your way out, stop by Bombay Sweetmeat Mart for a refreshing falooda (a milkshake-like drink made with rose syrup, milk, and ice cream) and a homemade samosa (starting at 50p).

● Experience the local nightlife with the “dodgy bar tour,” hosted by Dilshan Sirisena and Adam Kenny from Soulful Sri Lanka. This two-and-a-half-hour excursion begins near Pettah and includes a visit to some of Colombo’s favorite bars, highlighting arrack, the nation’s traditional spirit made from fermented coconut flower sap (£55 per person; soulfulsrilanka.com).

Culinary Delights and Beverage Venues

Ranbath Organic

This beloved café offers a range of delicately spiced curries and local rice served on lotus leaves with coconut husk utensils (plastic-free). The buffet changes daily, featuring options like beetroot curry and spicy pol sambol (a coconut relish). Don’t miss the Lavariya, coconut wrapped in a string hopper (main dishes start at £2; @ranbathorganic).

The ‘Stache

This bustling brunch spot is popular among locals, offering an eclectic menu. Must-try items include kaya toast (toasted bread with a coconut and pandan spread), roast paan sandwiches, and the Siam Ceylon, a unique version of Sri Lankan milk rice (main dishes from £2; @the.stache_brunch).

Eskobar

For a charming view of the city, visit the jazzy bar Eskobar, perched by Beira Lake in Colombo 2. Its vibrant orange décor and South American vibe set the stage for creative cocktails, with top choices including the smoky Sour del Sol and the zesty Tamarindo (cocktails starting at £8; @eskobar.cmb).

Table by Nyne

Nestled in a tranquil cul-de-sac near Beira Lake, Table by Nyne’s intimate outdoor setting provides a perfect retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. Guests are treated to quality service and exquisite food, blending European and local flavors—expect dishes like grilled barramundi with pumpkin gnocchi and buffalo curd sorbet (main dishes from £8; tablebynyne.com).

Uncle’s

With cinema-inspired decor, popular alcoholic beverages, and craft cocktails, Uncle’s remains lively during weekends. Enjoy small plates like mutton rolls or chili-infused cheese toast, and be sure to order the Rampe cocktail, a refreshing mix of Sri Lankan gin, pineapple, pandan, and coconut water (cocktails starting at £6; @uncles_colombo).

Gini

Gini excels in Colombo’s culinary scene, offering a creative menu packed with local ingredients. Highlights include curry aioli and fried prawn sausage, as well as white fish crudo served with nori. Their cocktails are equally impressive (main dishes from £9; ginicolombo.com).

Accommodation Options

Shangri-La Colombo

Offering stunning ocean views, the Shangri-La Colombo stands out with its luxurious spa and comfortable, sea-facing rooms. Overlooking the evolving Port City, enjoy the beautiful swimming pool surrounded by lush greenery and visit the Tiki Bar on the fourth floor, featuring creative arrack-based infusions.

Maniumpathy

This enchanting boutique hotel encompasses eight uniquely designed rooms, highlighting antique furnishings and luxurious amenities. Nestled within a historic colonial residence, Maniumpathy offers a serene environment in the upscale Cinnamon Gardens area, creating a perfectly cozy retreat. Be sure to enjoy a cup of Uda Watte tea at t-Lounge by Dilmah nearby.

Number 11

Architecture enthusiasts will appreciate the chance to stay in one of two suites at Geoffrey Bawa’s former residence, Number 11. Surrounded by Bawa’s favorite frangipani trees, this tranquil home retains its antique decor and original artwork, making for a truly unique stay (prices vary; geoffreybawa.com).

Travel Considerations

SriLankan Airlines services direct flights from Heathrow, taking approximately 11 hours. Bandaranaike International Airport is about a 45-minute drive from the city center, with taxi rides costing roughly £12, bookable through Uber or local app PickMe. While Colombo is accessible on foot, affordable tuk-tuks are a convenient option, which can also be rented via apps. It’s advisable to switch the app payment setting to cash, as card payments are often not accepted by drivers.

Note: Tipping is customary in Colombo, given the low wages for drivers, tour guides, and hospitality staff; a 10% gratuity is typically expected, with greater amounts appreciated if possible.

Responsible Travel

Sri Lanka is a stunning country that deserves ample exploration time. The northern regions, previously restricted due to civil conflict, offer rich cultural experiences alongside ancient sites nestled in lush jungles. While independent travel is feasible, hiring a local guide enriches the encounter with customs, culture, and history. Soulful Sri Lanka provides tailored tours that include Colombo and other unique destinations off the typical tourist trail.

Lydia Swinscoe contributed to this piece.